P. Pillot La Grande Montagne 2018 Chassagne Montrachet – Vineut

Reseña profesional

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Grand Montagne is also extremely promising, revealing a bouquet of fresh pear and citrus oil, framed by a delicate hint of almond paste. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, this is rich and textural, with a deep core of lively fruit and a long, chalky finish. As I wrote last year, the 12-hectare Domaine Paul Pillot has been directed since 2004 by the young and dynamic Thierry Pillot. The vines in the domaine’s enviable palette of holdings are farmed organically, though not yet certified as such, and the wines they produce are matured for some 18 months on the lees, the final six being spent in stainless steel. Percentages of new wood are modest, with plenty of larger-format 350-liter barrels, and the lees are never stirred. Pillot told me that he used even less new wood than usual in 2018. Characterful, elegantly textural and mouthwateringly incisive, these are superb white Burgundies, and to my mind, Pillot is one of a handful of exciting producers who win Chassagne-Montrachet the title of Burgundy’s most interesting white wine-producing village today. While 2018 certainly yielded generously, crops were smaller at this address than in 1999, and while generally Pillot prefers the 2017s, he adds the caveat that some cuvées have turned out better in 2018 than their 2017 counterparts. And on the subject of the 2017 vintage, I’ll be returning to this fine address in the spring to revisit some of those wines in bottle—something th

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